So this is Peru?

Peru.....for all the images it conjures up, the reality is a challenging place to pedal through. We took a risk entering near the end of the rainy season and have received what we should have expected.....cold downpours on gravel roads that chill to the bone and leave JoJo in need of a bath and oil.

Travelling in more remote areas has returned us to the calls of Gringo-Gringa, prolonged staring and typically an icy initial response. With our flags being stolen in a walk-by (yes we move that slow!) our spirits have been challenged to remain positive as we try to, ¨Speak softly and wear a big smile¨.

Our spirits are on the rise following 3 sunny days of riding and a recent, although brief, return to pavement. The next few weeks will carry us through Cañon del Pato before our probable return to the coast and Lima.

ROAD HAZARDS It has rained almost everyday since we crossed the Ecuador-Peru border about 2 weeks ago, so needless to say, we´ve had our share of river crossings. Generally we have been able to pedal through them, here with the swift muddy water, we unloaded the bike and carried things across.

A days ride in Peru wouldn´t be complete without dogs chasing and barking at us, donkeys hauling sugarcane (above), wood, or metal milk cans and herds of cattle and sheep sharing the road.

So tempting. We are considering buying a 3 wheeled tuk-tuk to complete the journey. Maybe that will be our mode on the next go-a-round!

Another Pass. We´ve now had a few over 12,000 feet. This one came at the end of a 19 mile climb up, followed by a 36 mile descent in the rain.

Road conditions are becoming more and more challenging. We pick up bonus miles by swerving around the potholes.

Kulap Ruins. Less well known than Machu Picchu, there is no train to the top of Kulap.

4000´up over 6 miles. Thank God for switchbacks.

We are in rural areas. The typical construction is handmade clay and straw bricks with plaster over the top.

Kulap (AD1000) is surrounded by farm fields. It sees less than 1/100th of the visitors of MP. The hill across the valley was the staging grounds for the tribe that took Kulap. It took 10 years and eventually ended when the stronghold ran out of food and water.

A grand entrance. Everything about this seemed supersized. Thankfully McDonald´s has come here yet.

Rice fields and harvest time. They must have wrinkly feet like us.

Nap time for this little one- all bundled up in a hammock.

Just after crossing the Peru border, this nice family let us sleep inside on their restaurant floor for the night.

Young and old all want to have a look at JoJo. (Take a good look at his shirt....our Gringo pal)

All aboard...Peruvian style transport...good for people, hogs, dogs....

All the equipment needed for rounding up the bulls....front wheel rammed into it´s side and big stick for prodding from behind.

An invitation to learn how to start the stove top...using wood and corn husks. She makes a mean soup!

Market day. Seems like the smaller the people, the larger the hat!

No caption needed.....CHUMP (is faded on the wall of this house).