Monday, April 26, 2010

Peru Part 2

The last few weeks our route has included many roads less travelled! The climbs and descents have been significant in shaping this section of the trip. They have brought about the greatest challenges both physically and mentally of the trip.....and yet we roll on! ¨Wilber¨ was our roommate for a night, snorting around the door to our room. He became the inspiration for how to deal with the constant staring from kids as we slowly climb up the mountains. Now our passing by is highlighted by animal noises, calves, sheep, but our favorite is pig snorts. We figure if you are going to stare, might as well be something good to stare at!
We´ve seen our share of dogs on the road. This of the friendly variety was our guard dog for a while until he had cattle round up duty. On the road it´s a little more challenging. I now have rocks in my jersey pocket for Christie to grab and throw (currently she is hitting 47%). A highlight to one riding day was two chasing dogs, one of which got hit with a rock and backed off. As the other one came closer Christie shouted, ´´I have one for you too´´. Priceless memories! (HEY...you would do it too after months of nipping dogs)
Moving in slow motion! Hills and gravel have made for some long cycling days. A few unexpected paved sections were never so welcomed.
Sharing the road. Our path has crossed many a Shepard. Usually seems to be an old woman who spends a good chunk of her time spinning yarn by hand.
Think we´ll walk here. Like I said, paved roads are certainly a blessing!
Down and up. Many people saw SPOT on this day and commented on the descent and climb. Yep, it was that challenging! Down 4,000´and up 5,000´.
We are getting a little too good at changing spokes. Luckily my dad decided he needed to see Machu Picchu....he will also play delivery boy with a new wheel and other goodies!
Rocky roads in the darkness of a tunnel. Had to turn on the light for these. This was also a mining area, so each of the 40 tunnels offered the possibility of getting up close and personal with a mining truck.
Bridge out! Glad it hadn´t rained the few days beforehand. Jojo, Bob and the bags got a free ride across the swift current on our backs.
The Oxygen levels were slightly higher at plant level. We needed all the help we could get conquering the passes! We´ve also found our sleep a little more restless above 11,000 feet. The curse of the flatlanders bites us again!
While we missed the Minnesota winter, we are still catching snow. A day after we passed this area, there was a rain and hail storm that made the whole area white.
16,000 feet in the second highest mountain range in the world on bike. It hasn´t sunk in for us yet either!
Bundled up. Even late in the day we were wearing most of our warm clothes. The Cordilla Blanca stretches out behind Christie.
A shack for the night. $2-3 rents a room with a light, electrical outlet, straw bed and maybe running water. Here at 2,000 feet the cold shower felt good!
A room with a view. We tucked in behind the rocks next to the road and were sheltered in this cave. It offered a wonderful view of the sunrise.
Our neighbor to the North. Our path crossed this Canadian´s at a small remote town. Due to a few problems with his motorcycle, we were able to meet him a few more times down the road.
Always fun to see tourists and these Italians were no exception. Their month long trip included a stop at the famous Cañon del Pato. Our common language turned out to be Spanish.
Werner and Maria hosted us for a few nights. This German-Peruvian couple are working on starting up a hostel. With their location, knowledge of the area and Maria´s cooking - it is sure to be a success!
Christie is on the right. This lady sat down and shared her story as we stopped for a rest.
We were greeted by this mother-daughter crew as we entered the Huascaran National Park.
As we end a few grueling weeks, we are excited about pavement for a while, some flatter areas in our path and the prospect of visitors coming at the end of the month.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

So this is Peru?

Peru.....for all the images it conjures up, the reality is a challenging place to pedal through. We took a risk entering near the end of the rainy season and have received what we should have expected.....cold downpours on gravel roads that chill to the bone and leave JoJo in need of a bath and oil.

Travelling in more remote areas has returned us to the calls of Gringo-Gringa, prolonged staring and typically an icy initial response. With our flags being stolen in a walk-by (yes we move that slow!) our spirits have been challenged to remain positive as we try to, ¨Speak softly and wear a big smile¨.

Our spirits are on the rise following 3 sunny days of riding and a recent, although brief, return to pavement. The next few weeks will carry us through Cañon del Pato before our probable return to the coast and Lima.

ROAD HAZARDS It has rained almost everyday since we crossed the Ecuador-Peru border about 2 weeks ago, so needless to say, we´ve had our share of river crossings. Generally we have been able to pedal through them, here with the swift muddy water, we unloaded the bike and carried things across.
A days ride in Peru wouldn´t be complete without dogs chasing and barking at us, donkeys hauling sugarcane (above), wood, or metal milk cans and herds of cattle and sheep sharing the road.
So tempting. We are considering buying a 3 wheeled tuk-tuk to complete the journey. Maybe that will be our mode on the next go-a-round!
Another Pass. We´ve now had a few over 12,000 feet. This one came at the end of a 19 mile climb up, followed by a 36 mile descent in the rain.
Road conditions are becoming more and more challenging. We pick up bonus miles by swerving around the potholes.
Kulap Ruins. Less well known than Machu Picchu, there is no train to the top of Kulap.
4000´up over 6 miles. Thank God for switchbacks.
We are in rural areas. The typical construction is handmade clay and straw bricks with plaster over the top.
Kulap (AD1000) is surrounded by farm fields. It sees less than 1/100th of the visitors of MP. The hill across the valley was the staging grounds for the tribe that took Kulap. It took 10 years and eventually ended when the stronghold ran out of food and water.
A grand entrance. Everything about this seemed supersized. Thankfully McDonald´s has come here yet.
Rice fields and harvest time. They must have wrinkly feet like us.
Nap time for this little one- all bundled up in a hammock.
Just after crossing the Peru border, this nice family let us sleep inside on their restaurant floor for the night.
Young and old all want to have a look at JoJo. (Take a good look at his shirt....our Gringo pal)
All aboard...Peruvian style transport...good for people, hogs, dogs....
All the equipment needed for rounding up the bulls....front wheel rammed into it´s side and big stick for prodding from behind.
An invitation to learn how to start the stove top...using wood and corn husks. She makes a mean soup!
Market day. Seems like the smaller the people, the larger the hat!
No caption needed.....CHUMP (is faded on the wall of this house).