Thursday, January 7, 2010

Nicaragua wrap-up and Costa Rica fun with family

Christie: We started pedaling south in August not really having a clear answer to the question ¨Why are you doing it?¨ We basically wanted to allow ourselves to feel uncomfortable...to allow the world to impact us in unexpected ways, and then to let God work with those experiences in our hearts and transform us as Christians and servants in this world (whatever that may look like). Nicaragua most definitely impacted us in some difficult ways. It is the second poorest country, next to Haiti, in the Western Hemisphere. Spot was stolen (replaced and in commission again!), a blatant and planned robbery, different than the mere curiosity that walked away with spot a few times in previous countries. In Nicaragua there seemed to be a sense of desperation that blanketed morals and over-shadowed the expansive and ornate Catholic church buildings. The feeling of material inadequacy (70% unemployment) was compounded by the sights of tourists dining in restaurants and peering over their second story balcony hotel. Additionally, media was around every corner in the form of magazines and TVs. It was suggested that we NOT give money to the kids on the street requesting ¨1 dollar.¨ There are several reasons for this including 1) begging for money is more attractive than school, so they stop going 2) there are food kitchens in most bigger cities 3) there is most likely native Nicaraguan food available to them at home, but they prefer soda and burgers that the tourists eat 4) parents may pressure their kids by abuse or kids may be paid to go out on the streets to get money 5) few children are homeless and do have homes to go to. By giving change to the open hand, these behaviors are encouraged. It goes as far as this....Carol was strolling down the street sipping a Coke, and was asked by about 6 different people along way for her half empty bottle. Kids would sometimes hiss and spit when we passed them by without giving them money. I decided to start giving the kids a ¨five¨with my hand...that seemed to by more valuable than money measured by the big smiles and giggles I got back, especially when Greg followed behind me with a ¨high five!¨
When we were in the Peace Corps in Vanuatu, people did not have much money, the vast majority did not have ¨jobs¨, but they did have huge gardens, they were strong and thankful Christian people, and generally content with their life (no cars, no electricity, dirt floor houses made of bamboo and palm leaves, and open fire as kitchen). No doubt, there are many many factors playing against the Nica people, recent political turmoil, revolution, and war, a sense of hopelessness related to unemployment, alcohol and drug abuse...and more that I could never understand after only 3 weeks there. It was very interesting to get Greg and Carol´s perspective after completing 3 months of their Peace Corps service there.
The oldest Catholic church in Granada. On Christmas morning, the cross pedestal was the site of the stolen SPOT, quite sad and telling of the desperate state people are in.
The main mode of transportation, not only in Nicaragua, but in most Central American countries. People carry EVERYTHING on bikes....we´ve seen huge sacks of rice, generators, re bar, firewood, on and on. The most impressive was the family of 4, just add one more child riding side-saddle on the back rack to the picture above.
Haven´t ran across many long distance cyclist, but in the last 2 weeks, have meet 4! These 2 girls are from Germany, started in Mexico City heading towards Argentina. Despite meeting some wonderful people, they have been tormented by men shouting profanity at them as they ride down the road. This has affected their trip greatly, have had to take buses for stretches, and has left a sour taste for Central America unfortunately. It is quite a different experience traveling as a married couple.
Wandering the streets of Granada with Greg and Carol.
We took a chicken bus (yes, there was actually a chicken under Carol´s seat) and ferry to the island on Lake Nicaragua for lunch. The bus was an experience...kind of fun to move without having to burn calories (although still sweating). Most interesting was the amount of people they can smoosh into the good ol yellow school buses with standing room only...not to mention, the lady who then got on to sell her basin of fresh made cheese and tortillas and actually sold out with only one determined pass, shoving her way from the front to the back!
Ma and Pa Nelson. Such a cherished time together! We love you guys.
Our favorite ¨Gran promocion.¨ Made a number of stops for the Eskimo fudgesicle.
The border crossing into Costa Rica was the most disorganized and lengthy by far. We stood on the Nicaraguan side for almost 1.5 hrs through rain and 6 randomly scattered ¨lines¨ among, I´m guessing, 750 other bothered people, then onto the CR side for another 45 minutes. Here, on CR pavement, looking eagerly to what awaits with a volcano in the back ground.
More cyclists! The couple in yellow and white (middle), Peter and Sally from WI, have cycled sporadically for shorter lengths of time throughout the world. And Dave and Lynne from England (on the end of the table), have been on the road for 18 month and started their trip in Asia, flew to Venezuela and cycled south to Bolivia, flew to San Jose CR and are heading north to Mexico. They are quite inspirational...after the devastating early losses of their parents to a brain hemorrhage and cancer, they realized tomorrow is never a certainty, and retirement is not worth waiting for, so set off to live their dream today at age 52 and 54.
Just a week after saying good-bye to the ma and pa Nelson in Nicaragua, we said hello to ma Strecker and sis Michelle. A brilliant rainbow welcomed us to the Costa Rica Nation Park of Rincon, we hiked 11 miles to boiling mud and lagoon pools, then too...
this spectacular waterfall....
.....and this beauty. So much fun to swim in the cool turquoise colored water, under and behind this 60 meter waterfall! The next day, we all shreaked whoooeee, as we flew through the canopy of the forest on a zipline, then relaxed at the beach. Had a great hike through the cloud forest, called Santa Elena Biologic Reserve, 5,000 ft high and on top of a lookout tower provided a great view! The 69,000 acre reserve opened in 1992, initiated by a group of Canadian school kids who wanted to save the rainforest, and now has long term sustainability. The entrance fees are reinvested for the management of the reserve and given to a local high school to help upgrade technology and fund courses in environmental education...pretty cool! Also visited a huge butterfly park and greenhouse that houses thousands of butterflies, including all parts of the lifecycle. Here an Owl Butterfly is just emerging into adult-hood, notice the owl like eye AND and snake looking face on the wing! Good defense! An awesome rainbow to close the day...we all agreed the most spectacular we´ve ever seen.
We will be back on the bike today after dropping mom off at the airport. We had a great time with family and seeing the sights of Nicaragua and Costa Rica with them. Looking forward to pedaling again and the surprises the road brings. We expect to be in CR for another week or so, and about 2 weeks in Panama before flying over the Darian Gap into Colombia....here we come South America!

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