Friday, September 10, 2010

Reflecting on the return

Eric: As our wheels roll closer to Minnesota, the realities of a changing life are becoming more apparent. The day to day freedoms we have known on the bike - pedal or not, this route or that, long mid-day nap in the park - as well as the discomforts of a long trip - are nearing an end........soon to be replaced with jobs, a real bed, and a mortgage?

The finish line is in sight....but this wasn't supposed to be about a finish line. We wanted to be impacted by the world. Have footprints left all over us and be changed by the bruises. The comforts of our homeland now are filled with pin pricks of discomfort. The typical American fears that surfaced before we first crossed into Mexico a year ago, never materialized. Now we are more impacted by the safe and sterile life many Americans try to create around them......and we don't like it. No trespassing, wash your hands, eat before this date, beware of dog, caution coffee may be hot, warning this peanut butter contains peanuts...........
Still have a few things to figure out. Keep riding.
I've got a mule, and her name is Sal. Fifteen miles on the Erie Canal. She's a good old worker and a good old pal, Fifteen miles on the Erie Canal. We've hauled some barges in our day, Filled with lumber, coal and hay, And we know ev'ry inch of the way From Albany to Buffalo.

Christie was treated to music every inch of the way.
My grandparents went to Niagara Falls on their honeymoon...and again 40 yrs later (grandma always said the second trip was because they actually wanted to see the falls). This was our first time there, it was all it was cracked up to be.
We were drawn to the international flair of the area. Chinese, Colombian, Polish, Swiss and US travelers found the Jojo train a little more exciting than water falling....for a few minutes as we strolled by. A $1 ferry ride addressed our bridge crossing issue. Detroit and Port Huron bridges didn't want anything to do with our preferred mode of transportation.
A friendly face on our final return to the states. Ray went pedaling around town looking for a map we could use, then prayed over our journey before we left him. I believe his understanding of Michigan roads and drivers triggered his prayer.
One cool family! A last trip before the start of school, the determination of this family, particularly the 8th grade twin girls impressed us. They were nearing the end of a week long bike ride along the Erie Canal.
Just part of the family. We enjoyed a Labor Day warm shower host and were welcomed as part of the family. We enjoyed our departing ride with Jim to the dunes of Lake Michigan.
Making new friends.

Stealth camping and warm showers have been the primary places we lay our heads in the US. Rural churches during the week and schools on the weekend are easy, urban camping has been a little more of a challenge.
Lift off in the dunes.
Christie's joy of shopping was slightly dampened as she walked into this mall...soaking wet, bright yellow cycling jacket, cycling shoes, and no shower in a few days. As one of our friends commented, the click of C's shoes walking through were the "loudest clicks ever heard."We filled up at roadside stands throughout NY, Ontario and Michigan.
Grocery stores are hard. We are a nation filled with choices....going in to a store to grab simple things....maybe peanut butter, salad dressing and cereal turns into a colossal chore filled with no less than 100 options. On this Sunday morning it just seemed simpler to go with pumpkin pie....and you can't have pie without cool whip! There wasn't very much talking as we sat in front of the store and our breakfast disappeared.
Sometimes it is easier to have food choices whittled down for us. Hirsch (cycling for 6 yrs around the world) is teaching us the finer points of dumpster diving during our virgin experience. With our endless number of food choices comes a mountain of waste. These bagels were maybe a day old...and mighty tasty. We are excited to practice our new found skills for the rest of the ride. Brings a whole new meaning to the term dive master.
Peace Corps Vanuatu re-unites. The five of us overlapped for one year in the South Pacific. E, C, Hirsch - having a bit of a zen moment here, Sarah and Aaron Reedy - both Chicago teachers. A great stop and opportunity to discuss items with people who can readily relate to our experience as they have had so many of their own unique adventures.
A high school friend from Albert Lea who lives in the Chicago area. Christie is getting comfortable holding a young one.
We enjoyed moving under power while the clickity clack of the wheels on the steel rails sped us towards Chicago. We stayed with Pete (Eric's cousin) in NW Indiana.
The honeymoon period of our return home is giving way to the day to day US realities. Before we could dismiss oddities (to us) as just being an East coast thing, no longer. We are now in the Midwest, the world we left, and it didn't seem to take a year off. A year removed from our cell service we notice nearly everyone is walking or driving or riding the train, while texting or with a phone to their ear. Those who aren't have stuffed their ear buds in isolating themselves from interactions.
So we give you a challenge today. For a few moments be electronic and media free. Move under your own power and engage 10 other people who are moving under their own power. Hey, Hello and Nice Day all count! Then remember what it is like to be a human....without fear.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Ridin' in the USA

Our week long whirlwind of travel included ferries, cabs, subway, planes, people movers, and of course Jojo to carry us through 3 countries and two of the largest cities in the world. Through it all, we continued to have amazing encounters with people and said a bitter-sweet adios to South America......for now. At the same time flying into the NYC area, cycling in the WTC area, seeing the Statue of Liberty, and American flags on nearly every house we passed pedaling up the Hudson, our patriotic levels are overflowing. We love this country! Conserving body heat. We spent quite a few cold nights in Argentina and Uruguay. The heat was more important than the fact that Christie hadn't showered in several days. The Rio Plata is known for its sunsets. We caught a few beauties on our ride South in Uruguay.Andres is an Ecuadorian we met up with in Uruguay. We enjoyed the riding company as we cycled together for a few days. He had been on the road solo for 8 months, going through Colombia, Venezuala, Brazil (including the Amazon), Paraguay, and Argentina. Every little town in Uruguay has a radio station.....cycling in we were the hottest show in town. More days than not we made it on the radio. We were greeted by cheers from several people in their fields who had heard our interviews. Loading the ferry from Uruguay to Argentina. A place to crash in BA. Claire hosted us for a few nights as we packed up and got ready to fly. Here we crossed paths with a French cyclist nearing the end of his round the world tour. The original Buenos Aires subway. Manual open doors and wooden seats. We met Emanuel at a small town a few weeks earlier when he was home on school break. He met us for a tour of the city where he goes to University. Overlooking BA. A huge green zone and wildlife area sits between the river and the city. Hope it all fits. There was as much weight in plastic wrap as components......... but in 4.5 hours, Jojo went back together just fine. We made a bit of a scene as the reassembly took place next to the luggage carousel in Newark airport, NJ. Eric always wanted to fly in to a major airport and bike out of it. His thirst for that adventure has been quenched! Few airports are designed with cyclists in mind. Newark-Liberty is no different. We got some local help from a pilot and a commuter and made it through. Dennis and Heike hosted us near the Newark airport. A huge thanks as we needed the rest and local cycling advice! Bridges have not treated us kindly over the last few weeks. On the bridge from Argentina to Uruguay, the border police said it was unsafe to cycle and we would need to hitch a ride across....the problem, there was no traffic (either to hitch a ride or make it unsafe). After 20 minutes, we took off with the senior officer running after us, shaking his finger and whistling. Who knew our year of training was simply to race across the border! Getting into Manhattan from southern Newark proved to be a similar challenge. We shared the road to Jersey City (above) with a little truck traffic. Honk - honk! Finally through the traffic, downtown NYC was only a ferry ride away. We got some great looks at Miss Liberty, an exciting experience and a symbol of the freedom that allows us the opportunity to realize dreams. The green spaces, cycling lanes and loads of people using them on a warm NYC day was well worthwhile. This cycle commuter paused on his way to work to swap stories. He has lost 50 lbs after 1 year of commuting to work 15 miles a day! Down the Hudson overlooking Jersey City. A more peaceful crossing back into New Jersey....this bridge had a functioning pedestrian walkway, allowing us to stop and take in the river (NYC on the left, Jersey City on the right. The kindness continues. Ray saw us resting on the banks of the Hudson. He and his wife, Linda, opened their house to us for the night as we swapped traveling tales. In the morning he rode with us a few miles down the road (his is the bike with the basket- he was slightly ashamed to admit!). An old friend. Our route crossed the AT at Bear Mt. State Park. For the mile and a half that our routes overlapped we relived that foggy, rainy day from our younger hiking years. Let the reunions begin. A highlight of the trip is meeting up with old friends. Bob was in Peace Corps with us (and he's a Metallurgist!) and our route allowed us to spend a few days and meet his fiancee, Jess. We are celebrating our return to the US....enjoying the beauty of this country, speaking in English (although all that wants to come out is Hola, Como esta?) and being more comfortable with our surroundings. Our ride home will contain more reunions, realities and re-adjustment to normal life.