Monday, March 15, 2010

"The price of admission is getting steeper!"-Eric

Ecuador is a unique country with rich traditions mixed in with modern life. We are generally greeted with moderate suspicion and curiosity. The people have been both intriguing and frustrating because we sense a distance...in stares, in laughter as we pedal by, and in greetings not being mutual. On the other hand, we have been shown some incredible kindness and welcomed as friends. We crossed 7500 miles on the ticker and the riding in Ecuador has been the most difficult yet....STEEP! The last 150 miles we had to the Peruvian border has been, not only STEEP, but also MUDDY, gravel, and had a few streams to pedal through as well. We have been walking and pushing the bike in short sections just to stop the insanity of our 5mph pace as we strain to keep the pedals in motion. During our trip, whenever I start to complain about climbs, Eric's response (so endearing) has been "It's the price of admission." I had to laugh, as we were straining up yet another mountain, around every bend up...and more up, and begrudged, he said "The price of admission is getting steeper." In general, the Ecuador road conditions have been very good, besides the hand full of landslide areas that have left the highway crews working. We are now about 2 degrees south of the equator and our elevation fluctuates between 4,000 and 11,000 feet. In the mornings we can sometimes see our breath (I´m not expecting any sympathy from the Minnesotans). Eric has a camelbac tan line on his back, through his shirt!...we have great respect for the sun here, even on cloudy days...reapplying sunscreen and lip balm numerous times in a day, and still our lips look like we had botox. It is the rainy season here through April, and as you may have heard Machu Picchu ruins, in southern Peru, had a huge landslide about a month ago. Our route through Peru will be determined by what others tell us about road conditions and rain. We have had rain nearly everyday in southern Ecuador, mostly in the afternoon, with obvious areas of landslides, but we have been fortunate so far. RIDING.... Riding in the clouds. I wish I got to look at this face in my rear view mirror on all climbs. Usually there is more tension and exhaustion on it. Back over 11,000 feet again. A little scary for us flatlanders.
We can´t seem to get away from the clouds and rain. I imagine the view here is fantastic!
And when the clouds clear we get this view. Complete with a patchwork of fields on the steep slopes.
CAMPING...
A great place to camp in a city park. Near the food stalls and police station. Volcano Tungurahua is spewing ash in the background, which it does nearly every day. On the other side of the road rises snow covered Volcano Chimborazo. While not the ¨tallest¨mountain, it is the furthest point from the center of the earth due to equatorial bulge.
No doubt we were the hottest show going in this small village. The kids wanted to see what a ¨Gringo¨ looked like while sleeping. Christie helped some kids with their after school chores by pushing a wheelbarrow of feed through the village...all eyes were turned in curiosity.
Our view from the tent...clouds upon clouds. We were eye level with a thunder and lightning storm and above another set of clouds.
Drying out in Riobamba. We are appreciating the coolness of the nights. Even broke out the stocking hat for a while.
FOOD....
Our market options are expanding. Pets or lunch?
Looks like lunch. Please burn all of the fur off of my Guinea pig.
A soup just isn´t the same without the foot. I think Christie went vegetarian this day.
Preparation for lunch. 1. Stab pig in heart. 2. Flush insides with water. 3. Trim what you want for now and throw it in a pot. Make sure you use all the pieces!
PEOPLE....
I was invited into this home for a chat...interestingly enough, there is a queen size bed and a tv inside!
We were welcomed to tent at the back of a restaurant in this city and got to meet these 2 fun kids.
Amazing family.....stopped us on the road and asked us to stay when we got to their city. Alfredo took us to meet 2 of his 12 siblings! He kept insisting that we stay one more day. We felt very welcomed in Cuenca.
We met many other kind people, one lady directly escorted us to Alfredo´s house when we asked for directions. Once there, while we waited on the sidewalk at a busy stoplight, a lady stopped, waved us over, and gave me a bag of pears. Another car full of people actually parked and came over to hear out story!
We met these 2 girls, aged 15, at our camp spot at the park. One aspires to be a Phamacist and the other a lawyer.
Some of our posse at the tiny village we camped at.
Ecuador has diverse groups of native people, distinguished by the type of dress and hats they wear.
The typical way women carry babies.
A busy market street. Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name. Unfortunately it was closed.
So, we are rolling South.....living each day as it may be our last.....and with these mountains it may just be!